Abayagiriya Maha Dagaba

        

   

    

Abhayagiriya Maha Dagaba

The early history of Sri Lanka has been documented through various texts, notably the Dipavamsa, Mahavamsa, and Culavamsa. The kingdom of Anuradhapura is known as the stronghold of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. When Buddhism was established, the religious communities of Anuradhapura earned worldwide respect and attracted monks from across Asia. The wonder and spiritual zeal of Anuradhapura, which hosts the atamasthana (eight sacred places), cannot be fully captured on a single page. Sri Lanka was once known as Dhammadipa—the chosen land renowned among Buddhist followers.

Historical records show close ties between King Devanampiyatissa's kingdom and the Mauryan Empire. After his conversion to Buddhism, Mauryan Emperor Ashoka (272–235 BCE) sent missionaries to neighboring states to spread the Dharma. Ashoka’s son, Arahat Mahinda, who was sent to Sri Lanka, converted King Devanampiyatissa and helped spread Buddhism throughout the island. Ashoka’s daughter, Sanghamitta, brought a sapling of the sacred Bodhi tree from Bodhgaya—under which the Buddha attained enlightenment—to Sri Lanka. This remains a highly revered symbol at the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi in Anuradhapura. Additionally, relics such as the Buddha’s alms bowl and his collarbone were brought to Sri Lanka and enshrined in sacred sites like the Thuparamaya.

The ancient kings of Sri Lanka were notable patrons and promoters of Buddhism. During their reigns, they supported the Sangha (monastic community), turning Sri Lanka into a spiritual haven for monks beyond its shores. Even though Hindu deities like Ganesh, Vishnu, and Kubera continued to be worshiped after Buddhism’s arrival, their roles were redefined with the Buddha placed at the center of the cosmology.

At first glance, Abhayagiri Viharaya may not seem to exhibit the grandeur typically associated with ancient monasteries. This is largely due to its brown exterior, which has a unique charm of its own. The colossal Abhayagiri Viharaya was constructed by King Vattagamini Abhaya (known as Valagamba). It is the second-largest brick structure in the world. Prior to this, a small Jain community had occupied the site. King Vattagamini Abhaya, who was exiled for 14 years during an invasion, later reclaimed his throne and built the Viharaya as a symbol of his victory. Ven. Mahatissa Thera of Kuppikala was appointed Chief Priest due to his devotion to the king. The monastery flourished into an important center of learning with four main divisions—Uttara Mula, Vahadu Mulla, Kapara Mula, and Mahanetpa Mula—encompassing the full spectrum of Buddhist philosophy. It was comparable to the renowned Buddhist universities of Nalanda, Jagaddala, and Vikramashila in India.

In Anuradhapura, several monastic complexes are identified as driven monasteries, named for their design focus on imposing stupas. The Mahavihara, Jetavana, Abhayagiri, and Vessagiriya belong to this style. The Chinese monk Fa Hsien recorded that over 10,000 monks and nuns lived in Anuradhapura. Abhayagiri Viharaya alone housed approximately 5,000 resident scholar monks. This monastery practiced Theravada, Mahayana, and Vajrayana Buddhism. It also served as the first custodian of the Sacred Tooth Relic.

The figure of 5,000 monks reflects the scale of religious devotion and the infrastructure supporting this large spiritual community. Walking through the vast ruins, one can imagine the monks’ lives, their scholarship, and their unified dedication to worship and learning. Among the remains is the Shower Oruwa, a solid rock structure believed to be used for communal meal serving. The complex also features twin ponds called the Kuttam Pokuna, which, despite being different in size, demonstrate sophisticated water engineering. The largest water body is the Eth Pokuna (Elephant Lake).

The site also reveals ruins of a structure with muragal (guardian stones) and intricately carved moonstones decorated with symbolic motifs such as swans, representing wisdom and virtue. The treasury of Abhayagiri Viharaya reportedly contained precious gems and jewels donated by patrons. King Gajabahu I supported the development of this monastery complex, and later King Parakramabahu supported the Mahavihara, leading to a decline in Abhayagiri’s prominence.

For many centuries, this great Buddhist college and stupa complex lay forgotten, overgrown with trees. It was rediscovered in the 1880s, and its significance was recognized. Excavations during the 1980s uncovered Buddha statues lying face down with their heads removed, evidence of destruction as noted in the Culavamsa. Early archaeological work at the site was done by S.B. Tunnels, with further research by H.C.P. Bell, S. Paranavitana, and G.E. Godakumbura.

The site underwent a major restoration under the guidance of Professor T.G. Kulatunga and the Central Cultural Fund, a painstaking process that took years, involving careful clearing and reconstruction. Many workers from neighboring villages contributed to this effort, and the country owes them great gratitude for restoring this magnificent Buddhist monument to its former glory.

Abhayagiri Viharaya exhibits both plain and decorative bricks. The stupa has three basal rings. Tiles, both plain and glazed, along with stoneware cups and bowls, were found during excavations. Beads, possibly used by monks for counting mantras, were also discovered. Coin finds include copper, silver, and gold pieces, along with metal ornaments. Coral fragments, likely used as mortar, were present in the masonry.

Abhayagiriya remains a monument of historical and religious significance. Visiting the site requires at least two hours to explore the vast complex fully.

I close with this maxim from the Dhammapada:

“Let the wise man guard the mind,

So difficult to discern and subtle,

Holding whatever it desires.

A guarded mind brings happiness.”

Centuries ago, the monks of Abhayagiri Viharaya understood the nature of life and its values. May we follow their example and build a noble nation.